Today was one of those days that made me feel fuzzy inside with excitement about living in Guernsey. What started out a grey, rainy Sunday turned into an afternoon coming across breath-taking views and watching Atlantic grey seals swimming in the sea.
It all started when we bundled into the car just before lunch and headed off to Torteval in search of ‘the Fairy Ring’. I had no idea this existed until I came across its details in the flybe magazine when flying back to the UK for half term (the benefit of sitting across the aisle from the girls, I actually got 20 minutes to read a magazine in peace!).
We don’t know Torteval at all so we headed for the Imperial Hotel (large hotel at the end of Rue des Villains at the start of Rocquaine Bay). We turned left past the hotel into the area that is marked as a dead end and found lots of 23hr parking and a beach Kiosk at the end. We parked next to what we now know is the Portelet Beach kiosk, lovely little place with lots of seating and we were amazed to find it open on such a grim day. Definitely one we will head back to.
Due to the rain a picnic was a no-no so we had a car picnic instead, this causes a disproportionate amount of excitement in our family, the girls literally get given a lunchbox with quite an uninspiring selection of food in (as they get all week for school lunch) and they think it’s the best thing ever! We, on the other hand, spend the entire time telling them not to spill their drinks/ rub the annoying red Babybel casing on the windows/ get squeezy yoghurt on the seats etc etc.
We survived the car picnic and the rain subsided a little so we decided to go for it and search for ‘the Fairy Ring’. We immediately came across Portelet Harbour, a pretty little bay with some fishing boats bobbing in the rough waters. There is quite a high wall obstructing the view for little ones, Tilly could see over it but Lottie at 111cm was just a little short. Tilly solved this by picking Lottie up and precariously wobbling her in the air, still not sure Lottie saw much!
I would say we followed the path to Fort Pezeries, but it’s not actually a path as you’d find on a cliff walk, it’s a proper wide tarmacked road (with no cars). Incredibly easy to walk on and great if you’re pushing a pram/ wheelchair. There is an old stone wall all the way so no dangers to little explorers and the views back to Rocquaine Bay and the Cup and Saucer (Fort Grey) are beautiful, even on such a gusty, grey day.
The girls were super excited to find an old German WW2 bunker on the left hand side in the undergrowth before we got to the fort. It was pitch black inside and my iphone torch didn’t quite cut it for illumination, making it feel very Blair Witch but we stuck together and made it out the other side and up some steep slippery steps into daylight. Had we had wellies on we would have explored in the trees but it was so wet that we retraced our steps carefully down into the dark tunnel and headed out the way we came in.
Further along the path and Fort Pezeries came into view with waves crashing around it. We walked past a friendly couple who told us there were seals swimming in the bay, well, Tilly and Lottie have never run so fast! Approaching the fort we saw a couple stood at the bottom of the causeway pointing at something, the poor couple weren’t expecting to be joined by 2 overly excited girls who were desperately trying to be quiet but failing miserably.
3 seals were playing in the water, we only saw their heads above water but it was still amazing to see. Lottie said ‘we’re so lucky mum’ and it was one of those moments that makes you feel really grateful for what you have. The couple were really kind pointing out where the seals were and they even let us have a look through their binoculars. Annoyingly I didn’t have my big camera with me so the photos on my iphone make the seal look like a rock in the sea!
We then headed into Fort Pezeries and learnt about its history from the information board on the wall. It is a coastal defence fort dating back to 1680. Three 18 pounder canons remain at the fort and the girls had great fun pretending to fire canon balls from them. They also liked the look of the stairs leading down to a wired off area that they were sure was a prison. The 360 degree views from here are stunning with The Hanois Lighthouse in the distance.
From here you can either walk down into a bay or through a wooden gate that leads to La Table Des Pions (The Fairy Ring). Research suggests that La Table Des Pions was used until 1837 as a picnic table for servants who took part in the late 18th Century tradition called La Chevauchee, a formal procession of officials and servants which ensured the roads and boundaries were in good order. Local folklore suggests the site is linked with fairies, witches, and elves and as such the locals call it ‘the Fairy Ring’.
After a few photo stops we headed for ‘the Fairy Ring’ which is situated on the left hand side once you get to the grassy area. The girls had talked a lot about seeing the fairies so they were super chuffed to reach the fairy ring and jumped straight onto it and proceeded to make up dances and songs. The girls found it a magical place and it certainly sparked their imagination, they asked if we can bring a picnic and have it sat on ‘the Fairy Ring’, not sure if that would be so great for other visitors!
Reluctantly we had to go when we realised we had 40 minutes until the girls were meant to be at a party so in stark contrast to the leisurely walk to ‘The Fairy Ring’ we marched the poor girls back to the car like they were in the army, this was not appreciated and was met with a lot of ”my legs hurt’’, ”I can’t go any further’’ but we made it to the car just as the rain started again.
All in all, what a wonderful walk and one that inspired me to start Guernsey With Kids and to write a blog. It took us just under an hour and a half and is suitable for all abilities and definitely for families using a pram. Guernsey has so many hidden jems and this is certainly one of them!
