I hadn’t heard of Herm Island until moving to Guernsey, and it was such a surprise to find this paradise island on our doorstep. Herm is located only 3 miles away from Guernsey and the only way to reach it is by boat. The ferry takes just 20 minutes and it’s hard to believe that in such a short time you arrive at an island that feels worlds away from where you have come from. The island’s slogan is ”there’s no place like Herm” and I couldn’t agree more.
Getting to Herm
Travel Trident is the long-established ferry provider to Herm from St Peter Port, with sailings from 1st April each year, with the trip taking just 20 minutes. There is bench seating inside and on the top deck, and dogs are welcome onboard. Tickets are bought from the Travel Trident ticket office at the Weighbridge Clock Tower, Liberation Monument, St Peter Port. CLICK HERE to visit the Herm Travel Trident website.
Arriving at Herm
There are 2 places the ferry will dock in Herm, and it all depends on the tide. Around high tide you will arrive at the Harbour and at low tide you will be dropped off at the Rosaire Steps which is an 8-minute walk back to the main Harbour, however, we love being dropped off at the Rosaire Steps as this is where we like to start our walk around the island beginning on the south-west cliffs.
Joining the Cliff Path
Herm offers stunning white sandy beaches, crystal clear sea and breathtaking scenery that can be fully appreciated by a walk around the island. You can join the cliff path just a minute away from the Rosaire Steps. With the Rosaire Steps behind you, follow the path and look out for a set of stone steps on your right-hand side. Thanks to a new blue sign highlighting the start of the cliff path, it is now easier to spot than in previous years.
Freedom!
From the moment you get onto the cliff path you will be blown away by the stunning views and the feeling that you have left behind everything that was on your mind prior to getting to Herm. I get this sense of relaxation every time I visit Herm, which is why I always feel like I have been on holiday after visiting the island just for a day! The east coast views are stunning and at the start of the walk you can see Guernsey in the distance, which for some reason looks massive when viewing it from Herm!
The cliff path snakes around the Herm coastline with the option to turn inland as you get near Seagull Campsite. You will come across a wooded area on your left-hand side with rope swings and a large tree with low level branches which is a climbing mecca for kids. When you reach this section you are very close to the campsite, and you will see ahead of you the option to take the path to the left, this will lead you inland through the campsite and through the middle of the island offering a shorter route down to Herm’s restaurants and shop, however, we always opt to stay on the coastal path.
The cliff path is quite uneven in places and there are some sections with a number of steps to climb, it’s unfortunately not the walk for someone with limited mobility, and you would need to keep a close watch on small children as the path does stick quite closely to the cliff edge in places.
Belvoir Bay
It usually takes us about 40 minutes on the cliff path to walk the south coast of Herm and around to Belvoir Bay, a stunning sandy cove on Herm’s East Coast. It’s such a lovely surprise when Belvoir comes into view from the cliff path, the elevated position gives you a lovely view of the whole beach.
The cliff path brings you out behind the beach where you’ll come to a signpost giving you options of where to go…to Belvoir Bay, continue on to Shell Beach (and toilets) or to go to La Manoir and St Tugual’s Chapel in the centre of the island.
The entrance to Belvoir Bay is literally 30 seconds from here, first you’ll see Belvoir Beach Kiosk which is generally open from May 1st to Sept 30th, offering hot and cold food, drinks and ice creams, with a selection of benches to sit at. Note that there are no toilets at Belvoir Bay, you need to walk further along the cliff path (towards Shell Beach) to the nearest toilets.
The beach offers a lovely sheltered cove that is a real sun trap as it can be much less windy than on Shell Beach, making it very popular with families. The soft white sand and crystal clear waters make Belvoir Bay a great spot for swimming and snorkelling.
On to Shell Beach (and the toilets!)...
As you walk on the coastal path beyond Belvoir Bay, you will see a blue Herm Nature Trail sign highlighting the abundance of wildlife on Herm and what to look out for.
Again, the views are stunning on the East Coast cliff path, and it doesn’t take long for Shell Beach to come into view even though you are still some way off, probably due to the fact that Shell Beach is nearly three-quarters of a mile long!
Once you’ve been on this section of the path for a little while (about halfway to Shell Beach) you will come to the only toilets on this side of the island, so I always make my girls go even if they say they don’t need it!
The closer you get to Shell Beach, the more you appreciate its beauty and the fact that you really could be on a Caribbean Island. The beach glitters white under the sun’s rays and that’s because it is aptly named, it is made from millions of tiny shells washed up by the Gulf Stream.
The path becomes sandy as you get near Shell Beach and you enter it on the southern side, near the beach café. The sand stretches as far as you can see to your left, all the way to the most northerly tip of the island at Alderney Point, and then curves around to dune-flanked sandy bays on Herm’s North Coast. The beach really is a stunner, with crystal clear water and soft sand underfoot. The biggest surprise is that the beach is never busy! It can be quite windy, but we never let that stop us enjoying a good few hours on the beach. For those who want an adventure, in the summer there are kayaks to rent near the entrance to the beach.
Shell Beach cafe was refurbished during 2021 and now boasts a lovely seating area. Open from 1st April to 30th Sept it is a lovely place to grab a snack or a full meal whilst enjoying the beach. For 2023 a new toilet block has been added at the entrance to Shell Beach, which is such a welcome addition, no more needing to walk back towards Belvoir Bay for the toilet.
Herm Common
After Shell Beach the landscape is different as you are on Herm Common and there are a number of routes you can take from here. We always cross the common and follow the sandy path on the opposite side, taking you past Herm Cemetery and along Herm’s West Coast. Again this is a great area for wildlife and you will see another blue Nature Trail sign showing you what to look out for.
Herm's West Coast Path
Once you are off the common, you will be on a gravel path that follows the coastline again, bringing you to Fisherman’s Bay. This can be popular with families as it is located very close to the restaurants and the Herm Shop and is a very easy walk from the Harbour. With soft sand and endless rock pools to explore, it is a good choice for those that don’t have the time to get to Herm’s other beaches.
The Mermaid Tavern
The West Coast path will lead you to the Mermaid Tavern, Herm’s popular spot for grabbing food and drink. We always enjoy sitting in the courtyard, which is a guaranteed sun-trap. It can get very busy in the summer and it is not possible to book a table outside, so you need to be quick!
The toilets are located just outside The Mermaid Tavern and the toilet block was updated before the 2022 season.
Herm Gift Shop
We were told about the Herm Gift Shop before making our first trip to Herm, particularly the fact that it is so popular with children. As soon as I walked inside, I knew why, it’s full of toys! The left-hand side of the shop is dedicated to children, and it’s not that the shop is that big, but it has a large selection of pocket-money priced toys that make my girls spend an eternity in there choosing what to buy. I guarantee you will not make a trip to Herm with Kids without visiting the Herm gift shop!
The White House Hotel
As you walk past the Herm Gift Shop you will come to The White House Hotel, Herm’s only hotel which boasts 2 options for food, The Conservatory Restaurant (fine-dining) plus the more relaxed Ship Inn where you can eat inside or outside on the patio. It is possible to reserve a table to eat inside at The Ship Inn for lunch or dinner, however, for the patio, it’s first come, first served.
Back Where You Started!
As you walk beyond The White House Hotel, you will be at the Harbour and Hotel Beach, a small beach offering great rock pooling. We often spend time on this beach when we are waiting for the ferry back to Guernsey if it is leaving from the Harbour. However, if your return ferry is leaving from the Rosaire Steps you will need to keep walking on the path past the Harbour, and after just under 10 minutes you will be at the Rosaire Steps.
Dogs on Herm
Dogs are welcome on Herm, with 9 dog-friendly self-catering cottages available, along with 8 dog-friendly rooms at The White House Hotel, so they can join you on your day trip or holiday. However, note that from May 1st to September 30th dogs are not permitted on Shell Beach, Belvoir Bay, Fisherman’s Beach or Hotel Beach. We always take our dog with us to Herm in the Winter and Spring as she thoroughly enjoys the walk around the island however, we have taken her on Shell Beach late April when it was very sunny and she got overly hot and we struggled to cool her down as there is so little shade on the island so I would urge you to think carefully about taking your dog to Herm in summer if you are only visiting for the day.
Herm Burn
Locals talks about ‘Herm Burn’ and we have realised that it is real! Herm is always a little windier than it is on Guernsey so the weather can be deceptive meaning you don’t realise how hot it actually is, leading to Herm Burn!! Don’t forget sun-tan lotion when visiting the island, even if you think you won’t need it!
Goodbye Herm!
We always thoroughly enjoy the walk around Herm Island, it does take us a few hours, but it all depends on how many stops you make along the route. This walk does not take in the middle of the island where you’ll find St Tuguals Church and lots of green fields plus the very steep hill from the church down to the harbour. Whichever way you choose to go, you won’t fail to enjoy your time on this magical island. For more information, visit the official Herm Island website HERE.
